Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Chanakyapuri








Ever since we Wards returned to the States in 1959, our old house in New Delhi has been the object of periodic family pilgrimages.  A perk of my father's appointment as the Ford Foundation's Educational Consultant to the Union Ministry of Education, it stood in Chanakyapuri, New Delhi's Diplomatic Enclave, on what were then the outskirts of the city. 


Set in a kind of compound with a horseshoe driveway of red quartz, an expanse of parched grass and dusty hedges, and a complex of servants' quarters in back, in its whitewashed stucco glory it looked something like the stacked upper decks of a small ocean liner, with duplexed semicircular verandahs on each end. Behind us stood a dairy, directly across the street lay a large empty lot frequented by snakes, enormous lizards,  and jackals, and a few hundred yards away lay a ribbon of empty boulevards that the Government of India had cleared and paved to make way for rows of prospective embassies.


I first returned to India as a photographer in 1968, and as the beneficiary of my father's rise in the Ford Foundation, I actually had the opportunity of living there again for a few weeks as sole sahib. The house was much as I remembered it, and no fresh refugee from art school ever landed on softer upholstery. Some of our family's old servants -- to our astonishment, eleven had greeted us when we arrived from the South Side of Chicago in 1954 -- were still around, and it had not changed nearly as much as I had. Living there again as a young bachelor evoked some curious sensations for me: nostalgia, certainly, but also a weird sense of abandonment, as if the family had somehow left me behind. Where was my mother when the cook came in to go over his accounts? Where was my father when my driver asked where I wanted to go? Why were my brother and sister's rooms empty? I felt like the young heir to an extinguished dynasty, and when it came time to make way for the next educational consultant, it was almost a relief.


Another ten years passed, and I returned to research a novel. The day after the night I landed, my first stop was the old house, where I hoped to photograph a papaya tree my sister and I had planted. I imagined that it must have achieved the stature of a sequoia. 


By now the Ford Foundation had handed the house over to the Government of India which, in turn, had bestowed it upon the Government of West Bengal to serve as a rest house. As the local caretaker graciously escorted me around, I heard for the first time the whispering of mortality that twenty years later hisses in my ears like tinnitis. The verandahs had been enclosed, the living room divvied up into bureaucratic warrens, and the covered terrace my mother had constructed had collapsed. And as for the papaya tree, all that remained was a rotted stump.


On each of my subsequent trips I vowed not to put myself through that ordeal again, but the four years I lived there had been the happiest of my childhood, and I always surrendered to its gravitational pull. On my next trip five years later I was allowed into the kitchen my mother had overseen with Switzer vigilance. Here she had lectured the servants on germ theory, and her beloved cook Amiya had worked from recipes from her own frayed copy of the Joy of Cooking


It was late morning when I stepped through the dining room doorway and into the kitchen's once pristine, white-tiled precincts, and interrupted perhaps fifty large rats in their scramble for crumbs from the morning's preparations. One ran over my foot as I staggered back through the doorway to the verandah, where, years before, our bearer had organized a vigil by servants and neighbors of every imaginable faith to pray for my recovery from encephylitis. That's it, I told myself. Never again.


These revisits began to sap my appetite for Delhi itself, whose population had quadrupled since my boyhood. My old haunts had been subsumed by the bustle of what had turned from a kind of vestigial memorial to British Rule to a major world metropolis choked with motorized traffic. The old republican zeal of the 1950s seemed to me to have succumbed to a corrosive cynicism, and the city's best minds seemed focussed primarily on the best way to make money.


If all this strikes you as the grousing of an old man for the old days, the unseemly and perhaps nostomaniacal whining of an overprivileged chota sahib for all the deferences that devolved upon us in post colonial India, you are not entirely mistaken. Of course the population would grow, and the city with it, and my house would not survive in all its pristine glory. It was not a museum to our brief residence in it, but had turned into something else entirely, as had Delhi, as had much of India. 


If my disillusionment extended beyond Delhi, it was only to North India, as I had never been south of Bombay. But this past February, I traveled around South India with my wife's cousin, the sculptor Robert Taplin, who'd been after me to lead him on a tour of Indian temple sculpture. Suddenly I found myself in an India I could discover on its own contemporaneous terms, and by the time I had circled back to spend a few days in Delhi, my affection for India had been so thoroughly restored that I decided to risk another tour of the house, this time with my brother Geoff.  


So off we drove from the house he was renting in Golf Links to our old neighborhood of Chanakyapuri, along streets so changed that we were practically through the gate before I knew where we were. Where we were turned out to be a construction site, for apparently the West Bengal government, having been forbidden by the municipal authority to tear the old house down, had decided simply to subsume the old place in an engulfing structure straight out of a nightmare: a great brick and mortar maw with stairways seemingly leading to nowhere. 


We stumped around the premises for a while, revisiting my old bedroom, and my parents', and Geoff's, and going up to the roof where we once set out a stuffed owl one afternoon and watched as dozens of crows and vultures and kites attacked it. The house next door, once the Japanese consulate, was still in pristine condition. But everything else had changed. The dairy was now an army encampment, and the house on the other side of ours, once the home of our father's boss at the Ford Foundation, was surrounded by walls festooned with barbed wire. Half the kitchen had been entirely and perhaps mercifully closed off, and the construction had overwhelmed what little had survived of the terrace. 




Geoff and I gloomed around the house like ghosts, and we were pretty desolate by the time we got back to his apartment. After a couple of stiff drinks, we promised ourselves we would never go back. But that besieged old place is like a kind of gauge that indisputably measures -- should we sometimes lose track -- the inexorable passage of time. Besides, though there are not yet any rats in our kitchens, the house is probably not doing much worse than Geoff and I. After all, no-one has seen fit to encase us in a protective shell. The Delhi Municipal Authority would have no objection to tearing us down. So I doubt it's a promise we will keep.  

An Empire Relinquished by F.Champion Ward



One consequence of getting older is that you begin to run  out of mentors. By the time I turned sixty, three of mine had passed away, one just as he was about to turn a hundred, but the other two prematurely, of cancer. One of these was Meg Greenfield, the effervescent editorial page director of the Washington Post who moved down the street from me on Bainbridge Island, Washington, and encouraged me to write for her newspaper. This I did for a year or so, and I seemed to gain some traction, if such can be measured by the number of prominent politicians who took umbrage at what I wrote about them. But after a while I began to look down the road and see what a prominent column might get me if everything worked out well, and that was a seat among the gargoyles of The McLaughlin Group. 

So I balked and began to invest all my time in writing history. Meg was disappointed that her promising young man had decided to break his promise, and I'm still not sure I did the right thing, but we remained good friends and she still invited me to attend the parties she threw for the movers and shakers who came from all over the country to ingratiate themselves with this erudite and peerless opinion-maker at her beachside home. 

In the fall of 1998, I sent her an opinion piece my nonagenarian father had written about the end of empire as he had experienced it as a foundation executive in the 1960s. She liked it very much, and was about to publish it, when they discovered that she had cancer that had spread from her lungs to various reaches of her diminutive frame, and she died the following April. 

My father died in 2007 with his article still languishing somewhere in Meg's file boxes, and no inquiries could restore it to the batting order. So I've decided to publish it here. Dad had published several pieces in the New York Times, boasting to his writer sons that "there was still some life in the old bull yet." But I think this was the last piece of this kind he wrote before blindness overtook him. 








AN EMPIRE RELINQUISHED
Glimpses of the Departing Raj in India and Africa
by
F. Champion Ward  


The recent stately and cordial departure of “the captains and the kings” from Britain's last major colony was a reminder to me of how skilled the British became, after the Second World War, at beating dignified and amicable retreats from their overseas possessions. During the mid-century decade in which I first lived in India and then regularly visited Africa, former British colonies occupied themselves primarily with preparing for such imperial recessions and their aftermaths.
            Early in 1954, my family and I sailed for India, where I was to serve as a Ford Foundation consultant to the Union Ministry of Education in New Delhi. I soon found that the warm welcome that I received as a nongovernmental American was not extended to my official countrymen. As our ship (one of the last P. & O. liners) neared Bombay, the Eisenhower administration had announced its fateful decision to sell arms to Pakistan in order, as a  leading American policy maker later explained, “to shore up the eastern end of CENTO.” That decision abruptly cooled the warmth engendered in the first years of Indian independence by our first ambassador, Chester Bowles. Thereafter the American line — “We, too, threw the British out” — ceased to work with Indians, if indeed it ever had.
            Another surprise for American arrivistes was the good standing enjoyed by the recently departed Raj. India's former rulers were respected rather than reviled by the new leaders of India whom they had so often jailed. This apparent anomaly was explained to me by an Indian intellectual shortly after I had arrived. “We have settled our accounts with the British,” he said, “and are now free to admire them.”
            Unsettling, too, was the polished speech of many Indian officials. "Geez,” said one American agricultural expert, “these guys speak better English than I do.” The president and the prime minister were “Oxbridge” graduates, and my Indian counterpart in the Ministry of Education, himself widely known in India as the first Indian Secretary of the Oxford Union, once told me that there were eighteen Oxonians among his colleagues: “enough,” he added, “for an annual dinner.”
            Indeed, some of our hosts gave off more than a whiff of hauteur toward Americans that had presumably been inculcated by their British dons. This attitude was revealed in a number of ways. A ministry colleague first informed me that “the Sikhs are very energetic and superficial,” and then, on a later occasion, called them “the Americans of India," leaving me to complete the unflattering syllogism.
            But perhaps my probationary status was made clearest by our bearer. He had once served Jim Corbett, the fabled tiger hunter. When word reached Delhi of Corbett's death in Kenya, I tried to console him. “Yes, Sahib,” he sadly replied. “There aren't any sahibs like that any more.”
           
I returned from India in the Fall of 1958 and for the next five years directed the Ford Foundation's first program of “development assistance” in Africa.
            In contrast to India, where British rule had already ended, many African states were still colonies when the Foundation’s program began. Nor did all of their various European masters regard the prospect of their colonies’ independence in the same way. Indeed, Salazar’s Portugal, in its ahistoric way, saw no reason to accept the new Africa at all.
            On my first visit to Leopoldville (now Kinshasa), my Belgian host conceded, with an air of reluctant discovery, that Belgian rule might last for no more than another fifty years. His estimate was off by forty-nine years. Soon after the Congo became independent, I was having tea on the lawn of a hotel overlooking Lake Victoria when I saw what the Congo's independence meant to at least one family of Belgian refugees. A Belgian woman sitting at the next table with her children and their African nanny rummaged through her handbag until she came upon her house key. She held it before her for a moment and then, with a bitter shrug, tossed it into the nearest bush.
            The French and British departures were less grudging. The French divorced and then remarried most of their former colonies through the single grand gesture of the pater familias of the French Community, Charles de Gaulle. The British disengaged through a sensible succession of planned devolutions and transfers of power extending over a number of years. (These serial departures by the British were sufficiently numerous and well spaced as to enable one enterprising British firm to specialize in the rental of bunting and other paraphernalia required for the proper celebration of the birth of each new state.)
            When I visited Tanganyika (now Tanzania) in 1960, it was a British-managed U.N. Trust territory. Julius Nyerere had already been designated as Tanganyika's first president. Against his populist instincts, he was living in the official residence on the edge of Dar-es Salaam, where, escorted by the American consul, I spent the evening with him.  After a number of brandies, someone mentioned the British-African constitutional talks then going on at Lancaster House in London in preparation for the independence of a number of East African states. The talks were moving slowly, but far from accusing the British of stalling and duplicity, Nyerere said, “One can't really blame the British. They keep drafting constitutions, bringing them to the meetings, and saying, ‘Why not try this one?’” The phrase, enhanced no doubt by the brandies, seemed to please him, and he repeated it several times. In addition to reflecting Nyerere's fair-mindedness, it was an early glimpse, lost on me at the time, of the rivalry and mutual wariness among the future leaders of East Africa on which the East African Federation would later founder.
            The realistic statesmanship displayed at this time by British officialdom in London was not always matched by British colonial officers still serving in Africa. “If it had not been for your Woodrow Wilson,” charged the British Permanent Secretary for Education in the then Eastern Region of Nigeria, “I'd still be ruling my natives in my district.” But judging by the sullen reception he was given by “his natives” when I accompanied him on a homecoming to his former district, the proximate cause of his loss of authority lay nearer at hand.
            Of course, it was galling for the run of colonial field officers to face the early end of their careers, despite the “golden handclasp” with which they were consoled as they left the service. The sight of uninformed Americans seeking roles in post-independence Africa only deepened their resentment. “How long have you been in Nigeria, Mr. Ward?” l was asked by one British wife. “Ten days? We've lived here for nineteen years.” The next day, as I toured government offices in Kaduna, I got a glimpse of the way of life which was now coming so reluctantly to an end. My hosts were on the phone to each other but not strictly on Her Majesty's business. They were putting together the afternoon's tennis doubles. “No, not Simpson,” I overheard one say. “I don't think his backhand is quite up to it.”
            Perhaps, as a general rule, it can be said that the smaller the imperial power, the meaner the spirit of its departure (although French Guinea, where the French were said to have taken even the light-bulbs with them after Guinea voted “Non!” to the French Community, was an obvious exception). Here I include, along with Portugal and Belgium, the Dutch in the East Indies. Perhaps it is simply a matter of the greater importance attached to their few colonies by the smaller European countries. One of the first strong leaders in Mozambique, Eduardo Mondlane, once told me that he had grown up believing that Portugal was infinitely large and rich. But once he got there and saw how small and poor Portugal really was, he said that he felt “much less resentful” of Portuguese rule.
            Although the imperial departure was often orderly and sometimes magnanimous, it didn’t necessarily follow that the colonies thus formally empowered were, in fact, ready to become successful nations. In the case of Zanzibar, the British were barely over the horizon before the Sultan fell from his unsteady throne. Here the contrast between Asia and Africa is striking and may prove fateful for Africa's future. On the whole, the new nations of Asia were co-extensive with old cultures, but in Africa, which had been wracked by the slave trade well before Europe colonized it, new nations and nationalism were themselves artifacts of colonialism. A case in point is Cameroon. Its very name derived from the Portuguese word for shrimp and its two principal components legacies of British and French rule. Indeed, during the Cameroon's pre-independence period, one nationalist party made a patriotic point of spelling the country's name with a "K" as the Germans had when the Kaiser ruled Kamerun.
            Geography, too, made for social indigestion within a number of African states. The combination of a savannah interior inhabited by austere and undereducated Muslims and penetrated less deeply by colonial rule, with coastal peoples — many of whom, as the British used to say, were either "Christians or bare-assed pagans” — proved as difficult in Africa as has the mixture of Bedouins and Palestinians within the single nation of Jordan.
            A number of countries in Africa — Ethiopia, for example — share with such non-African countries as Lebanon, Malaysia and the former Soviet Union the misfortune of being dominated by one ethnic linguistic or religious group which constitutes about half the population. It is as if every other American were a Texan or white or a Christian, or spoke Spanish. In most cases, the hegemony of the dominant group is maintained but the resentment it inspires in other groups chronically threatens national unity and social order. In Asia the breakup of Pakistan is in part explained as the resentment of the Bengalis of the East toward the hegemony of the West Pakistanis.
            The divisive effect of tribal loyalties and antipathies, often extending across national frontiers, is another and, by now, familiar obstacle to national cohesion in Africa. For a time, many Americans, ignorant of intra-African complexities, tended to see Africans as divided only by their colonial masters. With independence Americans expected them to speak, think, and act as one. I recall Thurgood Marshall's surprised dismay when, as an observer at the Lancaster House meetings on Kenyan self-rule, he asked a Kikuyu leader about opening-up the highlands to farmers of other tribes after independence. “Just let them try it,” came the grim reply.
            Sometimes, Americans who had come to know the pervasiveness of African tribalism would try to reduce it in small ways. A colleague in Nigeria started out bravely with one Ibo, one Yoruba, and one Hausa as his household staff in Lagos, but he finished with three Ibos after one member of the experimental trio took a knife to one of the others on the ground that, as he angrily explained, “That man is a stranger!”
            Not that tribalism is unique to Africa. Flemish and Francophonic heads were being broken in Brussels even as tribal conflicts broke out in the Belgian Congo. And the Congo, when I first visited it, reflected the linguistic, ethnic, and religious divisions of the home country. Louvanium University in Leopoldville was Catholic, and so the “Confessional” University in Elizabethville was Protestant; students in either university were entitled to be educated in either French or Flemish. The Belgians in Leopoldville told me that it had cost some fifty thousand dollars to educate the one student who had opted for Flemish. I have often wondered about that student's reflections when and if he got to Europe and tried to order lunch.
            Other barriers to successful development in black Africa, ranging from friable soil and unevenly distributed rainfall to widespread illiteracy, discouraged any illusions that early and smooth progress toward mature nationhood and economic prosperity could be expected in Africa's first decades of political independence.

Even these scattered and personal observations seem to me to support the conclusion that although all colonial empires began in evil, some have behaved better than others. Certainly, the first Vice-President of Indonesia thought so. He once told an Indian audience that his fellow Indonesians “had to use force to win our independence, as you would have had to do if you had been ruled by the Dutch. The Dutch would have hanged Gandhi long ago.”
            A comparison of the aftermaths of the British departures from India and Africa might suggest that Britain stayed too long in India and then left Africa too soon. But unless one regards the bloody partition of the subcontinent as the inevitable consequence of an imperial policy of Divide and Rule, it may be more instructive to point out that since 1947 India has repeatedly changed governments by means of free national elections, now has a huge and growing middle class, and feeds itself. (Other, less tangible gains, as a member once said of a proposal before the Indian parliament, “must await improvement in the national character.”)
            In the case of Africa, hindsight is more difficult. Events so often seem to have been inevitable, once they have happened. However, in the sixties, it did seem clear that the die had been cast. Most Africans (but not all) were not prepared to wait any longer for independence. Before the Gold Coast became Ghana, I heard Kwame Nkrumah, then Ghana's president-in-waiting, tell a New York audience, "They say we aren't ready for independence, but here we come, ready or not."

Can it be that the turnover of Hong Kong was the posthumous handiwork of Rudyard Kipling? Or is it only coincidence that Kipling's prescient “Recessional” was published in June, 1897, almost exactly a century ago? At the jubilant height of Victoria's Empire, Kipling's poem urged his fellow-countrymen to abjure the pomp and “far-flung battle-line” of empire in favor of “an humble and a contrite heart.”
            Although the Labour Party rightly receives the primary credit for Britain's successful disengagement from its overseas possessions, and although one does not quickly attribute humility and contrition to Margaret Thatcher, the Tory decision to enter into the Hong Kong agreement, however belated and reluctant it may have been, should be noted as one more example of that conservative practicality which has often helped to ensure the solidarity of Great Britain in uncertain times.
            Some future Gibbon, seeking to explain the decline and fall of the British Empire, may cite such causes as the struggle of indigenous independence movements, Britain’s post War economic and human exhaustion, and party politics at home. To these one hopes he or she will add the British people’s increasing discomfort with the contradictions between maintaining an empire and pursuing their own democratic aspirations. But whatever the “verdict of history,” the manner of Britain's leaving deserves respect for the practical wisdom and common decency that British policy makers and officers eventually brought to the task of dismantling the largest empire in history. Perhaps now, at long last, we too can be “free to admire them.”

F. Champion Ward is a former Vice President of the Ford Foundation.